PARIS – Contained in the historic Ecole Militaire, with the Eiffel Tower looming above, Kate Moss and Robert Pattinson joined a star-studded viewers for Dior Males’s present at Paris Vogue Week — a slight however noticeable departure for Kim Jones.
Famend for his gender-fluid designs, Jones on Friday embraced a sharper, extra historically masculine aesthetic this season.
The white sanitized, virtually ethereal staircase descending onto the runway was minimalist and angular — very similar to the designs themselves. It set the stage for a Jones assortment impressed by the home’s mid-century heritage.
Taking cues from Christian Dior’s iconic “Ligne H,” or “H Line,” a revolutionary post-war silhouette designed to simplify girls’s style, Jones reinterpreted it as clear, structured traces for males.
Stars shine brilliant
The entrance row was equally charming. Kate Moss, ever the icon, prompted a flurry of paparazzi snaps, resembling a goddess on the foot of the staircase.
Robert Pattinson, in the meantime, exuded his trademark brooding attraction, drawing admiring glances. Louis Garrel, Nam Joo-hyuk, and J Balvin added their worldwide star energy, whereas Gwendoline Christie, statuesque and commanding, turned heads.
Rising stars Apo Nattawin and Mile Phakphum prompted an uproar exterior, underscoring Dior’s international cultural attain.
The seems — minimalist, masculine, couture
Jones delivered a set that balanced precision with opulence. A black leather-based bomber, minimalist and stark, exemplified the pared-down refinement that underpinned the gathering.
It typified Jones’ deal with structured masculinity.
Tailor-made opera capes, borrowed from Dior’s girls’s couture archives, have been reimagined sharply.
Polished leather-based boots adorned with satin bows — playfully nicknamed “bow caps” — introduced a couture twist to in any other case restrained seems.
The finale featured a placing pink gown impressed by Dior’s 1948 (asterisk)Pondichery(asterisk) high fashion look, reinterpreted with intricate embroidery that shimmered. Hybrid sneakers, embroidered with motifs from Dior’s 1961 archives, injected youthful power into the lineup.
Theme of transformation
Jones constructed the gathering round metamorphosis, exploring menswear’s evolution from the decorative excesses of the 18th century to the practical refinement of the nineteenth century.
Angular tailoring softened by satin bows, glass-bead embroidery paying homage to raindrops, and chiaroscuro-inspired material underscored the duality that has develop into a trademark of Jones’ work.
Seen and heard — a brand new route
Entrance-row buzz centered on the shift in tone.
“It’s sharper, extra grounded,” one insider famous, evaluating this assortment to Jones’ fluid designs of earlier seasons.
Rumors circulated about whether or not this pivot was artistically motivated or influenced by Dior executives. Both method, Jones’ pragmatic strategy to style — balancing artistry with wearability — delivered a powerful assortment.
What the designer says
“Mr. Dior’s Ligne H was in our heads even earlier than going into the archive this season,” Jones mentioned.
“It has parts which are graphic and angular, which felt eminently transferable into the lads’s world,” he mentioned. “Whereas loads refers back to the historical past of style, this isn’t historic style. In the end, on this assortment, we needed to say one thing about now.”
Jones’ work ceaselessly attracts reward for its capacity to reinterpret Dior’s heritage for a contemporary viewers, however at occasions, critics have famous that heavy archival references threat stifling daring innovation. On this assortment, nevertheless, he struck a assured stability — reimagining Ligne H’s angular traces with a deliberate precision that labored.
Nonetheless, the pivot to a extra historically masculine aesthetic might increase questions on whether or not this shift displays Jones’ artistic instincts or exterior pressures to align Dior Males with extra commercially viable codes.
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